Do you know what ingredients are in mascara and the other makeup products you use?
(CNN)The "No PFAS in Cosmetics Act" was introduced in the US House and Senate on Tuesday, following the release of a new study that found high levels of a marker for toxic PFAS substances in 52% of 231 makeup products purchased in the United States and Canada.
The bill was introduced in the US Senate on Tuesday by Republican Sen. Susan Collins of Maine and Democratic Sen. Richard Blumenthal of Connecticut and in the House by Democratic Rep. Debbie Dingell of Michigan.
"Americans should be able to trust that the products they are applying to their hair or skin are safe. To help protect people from further exposure to PFAS, our bill would require the FDA to ban the addition of PFAS to cosmetics products," said Collins in a statement.
"Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are a class of man-made chemicals, which includes PFOA, PFOS, and GenX. These chemicals can bioaccumulate in bodies over time and have been linked to cancer, thyroid disease, liver damage, decreased fertility, and hormone disruption," the statement said.
In an email to CNN Health, Dingell said, "These chemicals are in products that we use every single day and most people don't even know the danger they face daily."
The proposed act would direct the FDA to issue a proposed rule banning the intentional addition of PFAS in cosmetics within 270 days of enactment, with a final rule to be issued 90 days thereafter.
Lack of disclosure
The new study used a marker for PFAS -- the chemical fluorine, which is different than the inorganic fluorine added to drinking water -- to identify the presence of PFAS chemicals in the 231 products they purchased from retail stores in the United States and Canada.
"We found fluorine as a surrogate for PFAS was in all sorts of cosmetics. We didn't expect almost every cosmetic to light up like it did," said study author Graham Peaslee, a professor of physics, chemistry and biochemistry at the University of Notre Dame.
The study found that more than three-quarters of waterproof mascara, nearly two-thirds of foundations and liquid lipsticks and more than half of eye and lip products had high fluorine concentrations.
In addition, samples from 29 of the products with the highest levels of fluorine were sent to an outside lab for an in-depth analysis that could identify 53 specific PFAS chemicals. The analysis found each of those 29 products contained at least four PFAS chemicals of concern.
However, the most disturbing finding, Peaslee said, is that 28 of the 29 products in which specific PFAS chemicals were found did not disclose those chemicals on the label.
"Some of it could be unintentional, due to manufacturing issues, but there are several products where the levels are so large, they had to be intentionally added for something like durability or water resistance, because that's what PFAS do very well," Peaslee said.
"Although I've often counseled my patients to avoid products with "perfluor" or "polyfluor" on the ingredient list, this new study concerns me because many of the products contaminated with these compounds did not even list these compounds on the ingredient list," said Dr. Whitney Bowe, a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai Medical Center, who was not involved with the study.
"Moreover, the types of products that tested positive for high levels of fluorine -- and thus likely to contain PFAS -- are often used close to and around the eyes and lips," Bowe said.
That's a danger because PFAS chemicals may be more readily absorbed by the "thin, delicate mucous membranes" that are close to the eyes tear ducts, she said. In addition, women often "lick their lips and unknowingly ingest the ingredients in their lipstick, which is yet another route of exposure," Bowe said.
The lips are an area of the face vulnerable to PFAS chemical exposure.
In response, the Personal Care Products Council, a trade association whose 600 members "represent more than 90% of the U.S. beauty industry," said "we are waiting for internal scientific review" before commenting.
What are PFAS?
PFAS chemicals are made up of a chain of linked carbon and fluorine atoms, which do not degrade in the environment.
"In fact, scientists are unable to estimate an environmental half-life for PFAS, which is the amount of time it takes 50% of the chemical to disappear," according to the National Institute of Environmental Health Sciences
PFAS chemicals are used in all sorts of products: Nonstick cookware, infection-resistant surgical gowns and drapes, cell phones, semi-conductors, commercial aircraft and low-emissions vehicles.
The chemicals are also used to make carpeting, clothing, furniture and food packaging resistant to stains, water and grease damage. Foods that contain a lot of grease -- such as burgers, fries and cookies -- are prime candidates for wrappers made with PFAS.
While two of the most ubiquitous PFAS -- the 8-carbon chain perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) and perfluorooctane sulfonate (PFOS) -- were removed from consumer products in the United States in the early 2000s, the industry has created many new versions. More than 4,700 types of PFAS existed in 2018, a number that rises as industry invents new forms.
Newer PFAS chemicals are made with 4- or 6-carbon chains but appear to have many of the dangerous health effects as the older versions, leaving consumers and the environment still at risk, experts say.
"They went to the shorter chain carbons, and you study them, and they do just about the same thing," microbiologist Linda Birnbaum, the former director of the National Institute for Environmental Health Sciences and the National Toxicology Program, in a prior CNN interview.
"Some people call it the 'Whack-a-Mole' problem; others call it the chemical conveyor belt," Birnbaum said. "We don't really require adequate safety testing before things are put on the market."
Called "forever" chemicals because they do not degrade in the environment, PFAS are so widespread that levels have been detected in the blood of 97% of Americans, according to a 2015 report by the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.
PFAS in cosmetics
The fact that PFAS chemicals are added to cosmetics is not new.
The FDA says they are "intentionally added" to products such as "lotions, cleansers, nail polish, shaving cream, foundation, lipstick, eyeliner, eyeshadow, and mascara" to condition, smooth or make skin appear shiny or to "affect product consistency and texture."
Common names for PFAS include "PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene), perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, perfluorononyl dimethicone, perfluorodecalin, and perfluorohexane," the FDA said.By law, all ingredients are supposed to listed on the product label, in descending order of magnitude. However, the FDA said, some of these chemicals "may also be present in cosmetics unintentionally as the result of raw material impurities or due to the breakdown of PFAS ingredients that form other types of PFAS."
How much PFAS can be absorbed via the skin? That's a question that needs to be resolved with future studies, the FDA says.
What to do?
If you are concerned about PFAS chemicals in the makeup you wear, you could start by avoiding using any waterproof or long-lasting products. Much of the makeup with the highest levels of PFAS markers were labeled as "wear-resistant" or "long-lasting," the study said.
"Although it's desirable to have mascara or lipstick or foundation that lasts a little longer, I believe most consumers would rather opt for safe products that might not have the same staying power," Bowe said. "They do present a legitimate public safety concern."
Shopping for organic or "natural" makeup product doesn't always help either, experts say.
"Although many consumers assume that a product labeled 'natural' is inherently safer for the skin, that's not actually the case," Bowe said. "I've seen many brands use the word "natural" on their labels and in their marketing, yet they contain ingredients that are considered controversial in terms of safety for humans and the environment.
"I encourage my patients to shop brands that are transparent about their supply chain and take efforts to ensure that ingredients and packaging are being sourced from safe, reliable sources in a sustainable and ethical way," Bowe said.
Although it won't capture products in which PFAS chemicals are not disclosed on labels, consumers can use the Skin Deep database on EWG's site to look up specific products, Andrews said. EWG has also created a page for each of the 13 chemicals they have seen listed on labels
Some retailers are taking action
Some retailers, including Walmart, Target, Rite Aid, CVS, Walgreens and Amazon, have said they are now looking for toxic chemicals in beauty products, including those marketed to women of color, including skin lightening creams, hair straighteners and relaxers, according to the 2021 Who's Minding the Store? A Report Card on Retailer Actions to Eliminate Toxic Chemicals.
The report is a collaboration of nonprofit partner organizations, including the environmental advocacy groups Toxic-Free Future, WE ACT for Environmental Justice and Defend Our Health.
"Restrictions on cosmetics sold by Target, Rite Aid, CVS, Walgreens and Amazon primarily apply to their private brand beauty products," said report coauthor and Mind the Store campaign director Mike Schade.
The World Health Organization has called out the dangers of mercury in skin lightening creams, while studies have found endocrine-disrupting chemicals in hair relaxers and other products marketed to women of color. Women of color typically use more beauty products than other races, including skin lightening creams, hair straighteners and relaxers.
Formaldehyde is released into the air as a gas when some hair solutions are applied and then processed with heat, according to the US Food and Drug Administration.
"Research shows that women of color have higher levels of toxic chemicals related to beauty products in their bodies, and this is linked to higher incidences of cancer, poor infant and maternal health outcomes, learning disabilities, obesity, asthma, and other serious health concerns," said Taylor Morton, director of environmental health and education at WE ACT for Environmental Justice, when the report was released.
"Availability of safe and affordable consumer products marketed to Black women is an environmental justice issue," said Mount Sinai pediatrician Dr. Maida Galvez, the founding director of the New York State Children's Environmental Health Center, in a statement at the time.
Some of the greatest gains by companies evaluated by the report card were in the beauty and personal care sector. The report named Ulta Beauty as the most improved retailer -- rising from an F result in 2019 to a C grade today. Sephora showed the greatest improvement over time, the report card found, moving from a D in 2017 to an A today.
How Selena Gomez's Brand, Rare Beauty, Has Taken Over The Beauty Industry
Gomez's Rare Beauty had no trouble taking part in the beauty brand rivalry with not only her strong products but also the powerful social impact.
Beauty brands have seemed to become a major hot commodity over the years with new brands being released very often. It is no surprise when a beauty brand is released, the face behind the brand has the intention in mind to keep their brand unique and greater than its competitor. Over the past few years, celebrities have been commonly know for releasing high-quality beauty brands, making the beauty business more popular than ever.
Selena Gomez's beauty brand, "Rare Beauty," has taken over the beauty industry with a number of her products in her brand going viral online. The summer 2020 launch of the successful brand had its fair share of competition with other celebrity beauty brands already at the top of hierarchy. Gomez's Rare Beauty had no trouble taking part in the beauty brand rivalry with not only her strong products but also the powerful social impact her brand has made as well. Here is how her brand, Rare Beauty, has taken over the beauty industry.
7 It Has A Positive Message
Selena Gomez created Rare Beauty with intention to have every person who uses the brand, to feel comfortable and beautiful in their own skin. The brand has been dedicated to having a positive and uplifting message to it's consumers since its 2020 launch. Rarebeauty.com has its message posted on their "About Us" page, detailing Rare Beauty is breaking unrealistic standards of perfection." The brand's mission is to have products that make each person love who they are and not want to aspire to be anyone else but themselves.
6 It Is Dedicated To Mental Health Resources
Gomez's brand is not only about looking good on the outside, but also about feeling good on the inside. Selena has been extremely open and honest about her personal struggles with her own mental health and after dealing with and receiving help for her own battles,
she is devoted to helping others as well. The singer has dedicated to making her brand as inclusive as possible and she has followed through immensely by creating the "Rare Impact initiative." Under the "Rare Impact" tab on the brand's website, information regarding mental health "Resources & Support" to education surrounding mental health can be found.
5 They Are Dedicated To Raising Money
Rare Beauty has further created "The Rare Impact Fund," which is the brand's "commitment to give people access to the resources they need to support their mental health." The brand "donates 1% of all sales to the Rare Impact Fund" and raises extra funds for other foundations to improve access to more mental health resources. Additionally, as part of the "The Rare Impact Fund," they have pledged "to raise over $100 million for mental health services."
4 The Packaging Is Specially Designed
The singer and actress has been open about discussing her diagnosis with Lupus since 2015. Everydayhealth.com defines Lupus as, "an autoimmune disease that commonly affects the skin, joints, and kidneys." Back in 2017, Selena revealed to her Instagram followers that she had received a kidney transplant in the summer and her friend, actress Francia Raisa, donated her kidney to Gomez.
Due to her struggles with Lupus, Gomez has been candid about how her diagnosis with the illness and how it has caused her to have trouble with the strength in her hands. Therefore, designing the packaging of her Rare Beauty products with a specific design, which has accessible packaging. Fans have noticed and have appreciated the packaging as Glamour.com states, "fans have pointed out, the rounded applicators are designed to be easy for people with arthritis to use."
3 The Brand Has Variety
Behind the dedication to philanthropic work, Gomez has put into her brand, she has also put in a lot of work into making a variety of good products for the brand. Rare Beauty has a variety of different makeup products any beauty-lover would appreciate. The brand
"is a full collection of makeup, including 48 shades of foundation, concealer, blush, highlighter, two different kinds of lipstick, and liquid liner, among other products." It also includes beauty tools such as, makeup brushes, a sponge and a facial mist says Glamour.com, which sets a full-face of makeup and ties a whole look together.
2 It Went Viral On Social Media
Since the release of Rare Beauty back in 2020, a number of influencers and social media users have taken the beauty brand to these platforms to show-off their love for the great products. Her beauty items, such as the "Liquid Touch Weightless Foundation," went viral online due to it's whopping forty-eight colour shade range, being very inclusive to all skin tones. The product has been loved by many due to its "serum (or even face oil)" consistency "without compromising on pigment."
It didn't take long for another Rare Beauty product to swarm social media, as it has been months now where people have been obsessed with the blush in the beauty line. The "Soft Pinch Liquid Blush" has been admired by "shoppers on Instagram, TikTok, and online reviews" as a result of the product being highly pigmented with just one dot of the blush by the "super user-friendly doe-foot applicator for perfecting your placement."
1 It Made Blush Popular Again
After the blush went viral, many people online have fallen in love with the application of blush and the flushed-cheek-look has been a viral trend since. The application of blush, specifically, liquid or cream blush, has been commonly used online since the release of the "Soft Pinch Liquid Blush." Rare Beauty has not only done it's part through it's charitable work but has also created incredible and inclusive products that have become staples in people's daily beauty routines across the globe.
Post-90s generation boosts China's cosmetics industry
Those born after the 1990s are a generation with a growing sense of cultural confidence. As a result, "Made in China" products have become the first choice for these young Chinese as many are now saying they prefer locally-made cosmetic products.
China's cosmetics market used to be dominated by international brands. And local brands largely did not enjoy the same prestige. Less satisfying quality and design were people's first impression when asked about domestic counterparts. However, this old stereotype has been gradually changing.
Many like Bai Xiaomeng may find their makeup dresser gradually being taken over by domestic brands. As a beauty blogger, Bai found Chinese cosmetic brands are continually improving, especially in the design and product concept. In her view, now they can definitely compete with those international big names. Based on her experience at the press conference, Chinese brands are also quite innovative in collaborations and product quality.
Indeed, according to a report released by tech giant Tencent.com, Chinese cosmetics brands now account for 56 percent of China's market share. A CBNData report shows Generation Z and the post-90s generation make up more than half of China's online cosmetics consumers in 2020. Over 40 percent of the products they use were from local brands.
Some cosmetic consumers are shifting their habits of only using foreign brands to indigenous ones in their daily life, since the latter is more economical, especially for students. The others choose them as gifts to family or friends, simply for their beautifully designed wraps and high quality.
Instead of blindly chasing big brands, the post-90s generation is attracted to products that not only look good but are value-for-money. Cosmetics products designed with motifs related to Chinese traditional culture are now top sellers. There's even a term coined to represent this newfound identity trend – "China Chic." Behind all this, is simply a gradual trend of Chinese culture and products quickly gaining the confidence and trust from the young generation.
George Ren, a senior partner at Roland Berger, pointed out Generation Z are "more open towards domestic brands", as long as functional and emotional benefits justify themselves. Meanwhile, reasonable prices have long been a key factor when younger generations choose cosmetics products.
From various intellectual property crossovers to online marketing on social media platforms like "Douyin", China's TikTok, and "Xiaohongshu", new Chinese brands are resonating with young users, winning over their hearts and purses. These internet platforms are helping these cosmetic products stand out, magnify their unique qualities and simply bringing in customer traffic.
Now it seems a good window of opportunity for domestic skincare and cosmetic brands to develop themselves. But just as Ren warned, the majority of Chinese consumers still care about the true value of brands, no matter it's international or domestic. So fundamentally "it's all about how to develop and demonstrate the real power of products and brands."
Having a "rich and prosperous culture" is a major component of a "moderately prosperous society", as China further grows its economy and improves the livelihood of its people. This rising culture of confidence among the young generation will provide more business opportunities for domestic brands.